Well what do we have here..
These D-Like drift chassis' have been around for a little while but up until recently, not available in the UK. This is the Weightshift-Meister also known as the Re-R. Clever in design with belt-driven front and shaft-driven rear, this also has the capability to convert to RWD very easily (apparently).
Just like my previous reviews, if you want just the conclusion, head to the bottom of the page.
Whats in the box then? A nice, clear, concise manual all in English along with some D-Like stickers and the trusty labelled bag system to aid in building. So here we go...
I must say that this point to save me repeating it; this chassis is pretty much fully carbon and ally. Carbon upper and lower deck and various other components, high grade ally components everywhere and some plastic parts where necessary. This is the only version of this chassis, there is no basic plastic version, it comes out of the box with every "hop-up" (if you're into that) ready to go.
The bottom deck is in "bag Z" but of course everything bolts to it so that comes out first. Then we start with:
Bag A: Suspension arm mounts, steering posts
Bag B: Steering slide rack
Bag C: Steering linkage
Bag Z: Bottom deck
The slide rack is a clever design having an adjustable bearing so set the stiffness. The bearings are super smooth and there have been positive comments and results from all over the world.
Bag D: Front diff and output drive for shaft
These aren't going to be installed on the chassis till later but built at this point. The one way is pretty straight forward with a nice touch from D-Like; they have included little rubber O rings to fit into the outdrives to take up CVD slop.
Bag E: Front bulkhead and motor mount
Bag F: Main shaft and spur
I do love the design of the front bulkhead. It's just so sleek and solid with the D-Like emblem stuck to the side to set it off. Spur, spur adapter and spur plate as standard starting off the driveline.
Bag G: Front drivetrain
This is where it starts getting a little confusing when trying to calculate CS. It is a little tricky but just like building a chassis, it takes a little patience.
Bag H: Front shock tower
The suspension upper arms will be mounted here later but the hole options here are incredible. You can change the way the wheel moves through suspension travel by placing the arms in different positions. I, of course, will be putting them in their stock position.
Bag I: CS gearing
I call these the CS gear as this is the easiest place to alter CS. The double pulley (34T) makes contact to the motor gear (24T) and these two can be changed without affecting FDR or having to reset tension of belts and tensioners (no tensioners needed on the D-Like by the way). You can't mix and match pulleys though, they have to be a matched pair like bevel gears. The hole for the double pulley is elongated but follows the motor gear.
Bag J: Rear diff, bulkhead and propshaft
Bag K: Rear shock tower
Bag L: Rear diff and bulkhead cap
Found the first bit of plastic... The rear diff bevel gears are plastic!! This may need upgrading to metal but the plastic quality is way better than what you would expect and the spool itself is ally. The plastic feels strong, good structure and there doesn't seem to be any flaws in manufacturing.
Bag M: Front suspension upper arms and turnbuckle tools
Bag N: Front suspension lower arms
Bag O: Front steering blocks (knuckles) and CVDs
Bag M of course includes the turnbuckle tools required for the build and this is clearly stated at the front of the manual. The entire front suspension of this chassis is very intriguing.. The knuckles mimic real car design and work well with the double wishbone style arms. There is adjustment for camber, caster, SAI and track width. Also, it will be interesting to see how this setup affects roll and the roll center.
Bag P: Rear suspension lower arms and adjustable toe block
Bag Q: Rear suspension hubs and mounting plates
Bag R: CVDs and turnbuckles
It's strange how the rear shafts came built but the front ones didn't. They are different in design so don't get them confused should you take them out for maintenance. The rear uprights with the mounting plates give major amounts of adjustability for roll center and wheel travel. The damper will connect to the hub instead of the arm, WUN VX style giving greater control of suspension lever ratio.
Bag S: Front shocks and springs
Bag T: Rear shocks and springs
Forgot to get a picture here but don't get the front and rear confused. Although they are all filled with 350cst oil, the springs have different rates and the shock shafts are different lengths. The great thing about this chassis is that there is no need to upgrade or change anything, just tweak. A lot of the D-Like users I know are still running the stock springs. 8 hole pistons and D-Like quality shocks absorbers equals silky smooth operation.
Bag U: Battery mount 1
Bag V: Servo mounts and turnbuckles
Bag Y: Battery mount 2
Bag Z: Top deck
I jumped ahead to bag Y as I have seen this this chassis up close previously and know that they go together. This is where the whole weight shift comes into play. A high mounted inline battery promoting roll has become a favoured mod on other chassis'.
Bag W: Front bumper and body posts
Bag X: Wheel hex's (on discs) and calipers
All pretty straight forward here. There are two options for front body post positions but of course that will all change if you run stealth mounts. I didn't quite like the quality of the discs however, it seems they got to the end and threw these parts in for good measure.
The Re-R is a very strong contender for the current market. Famous for it's hybrid drive system; belt-driven front and shaft-driven rear, making it a very competitive chassis. Along with the high mounted battery and lateral motor, this chassis has been very cleverly designed.
As soon as you start building this, you see the extent of the engineering that has gone into this chassis from the steering and suspension setup to the weight balance and distribution. (Pretty much) all carbon and ally, when you buy this chassis there is no need for upgrades. Just some fine tuning and you have yourself a drift chassis that reflects and resembles 1:1 drifting.