Sunday, 12 April 2015

What I'm Running

I've spoken about my car here and there but never really talked about it so this post will be purely about my chassis. I will also share my setup even though it contradicts what I've said on this post.

(Image source: Eagle Racing)

So, we start with the chassis. I have an Eagle Racing R31-16FM. It is mostly standard, except these items:
(Just so you don't get bored on me saying it but I get pretty much all my stuff for the chassis from Eagle Racing. Generic components come from all over)

The rear shock tower
(Image source: Eagle Racing)

I didn't like the way the stock one looked and the body posts didn't line with the holes drilled for my previous body shells so I changed it with the GRT one.

C Hubs
(Image source: Eagle Racing)

I was contemplating getting the alloy 13° caster hubs but then I noticed that they do plastic ones with adjustable caster. 8°, 12° and 16°. Yes I know they're plastic but I got these because I wanted the 16°of caster and haven't changed it or even tried the others since I got them almost a year ago because it works with my settings.

As this was bought as an upgrade kit, my previous purchases of aluminium dampers, brake disc set and spur adapter were bolted on straight away retiring my TEH-R31.

Right, that's the rolling chassis. I won't bore you with wheel and tyre info as wheels are a 100% personal choice and followed closely by fitment to suit the chassis and geometry. Tyres depend on which surface you run on; I run 90% Prima GT carpet and so I am using MST silver dot (hard) tyres.

Onto electronics. I recently graduated to a brushless sensored setup having working my way up from brushed and I can tell that it was well overdue.

(Image source: Hobbyking)

I'm running the Turnigy Trackstar 120A Turbo ESC with a Turnigy Trackstar 7.5T motor all programmable with the programming card. I bought this because it was cheap and satisfied the (at the time) criteria. I'm still playing with the settings on the ESC but that's also due to fact that I'm still learning what all the different options are and what they do. Some will say that 120A maybe too much but as it's for learning purposes, I wanted to have a good foundation. I did start with a 45A sensorless ESC which worked but this is a new adventure.

(Image source: Savox)

The steering is controlled using a Savox 1251MG servo. I bought this used when I first started out with a touring car convert and it's still with me. It is quick and responsive when needed and also being as short or shallow design, it fits perfectly into any chassis. I have also been playing with my Turnigy 1256TG in my RWD chassis with positive results. You can read more about that one here.

(Image source: Flysky)

The radio gear used to control all this is a FlySky GT3B. People have dumped on the FlySky radios because they're cheap (which they are) and sometimes defective but, knock on wood, my one has never let me down. The controller has every setting I need for my current ability in RC Drift. Having said that, I am looking to upgrade sometime this year to something better.

The only thing left is batteries and bodyshell. If you've been reading my posts, you would've seen my shelf Queen GT86 and my daily AE86. Bodyshells are completely up to the owners preference but with the R31-16FM, I have to consider the clearance up front due to the motor being mounted in front of the front axle. There are also body posts that can get in the way. Due to this, I can't run my favorite shell which us the FD3S RX7.

(Image source: Voltz)

Batteries? LiPo easily! You'd be silly to waste your money on anything else and LiPos can be purchased reasonably cheap so you'd be a fool not to spend the extra few pennies. My advise would be to go hard case, I'm running 2 4000mAh Voltz hard case batteries but there are so many different companies selling this now cheap, once expensive technology. Head over to Hobbyking for more options. Just be careful when buying LiPos the dimensions vary within brands. Take into account the space you have for a battery and use that information when selecting your new ones. It is an absolute headache returning items but even more so for batteries as only some couriers will deliver them.

So there you have it, all that's left if my settings:

Ride height:
Eagle Racing Blue (Hard)
Eagle Racing Green (Medium)
Eagle Racing Aluminium
Eagle Racing Aluminium
3 hole
3 hole
Shock oil:
Front bumper and top plate removed for light weight tuning. Motor fan installed
Rear diffuser removed for body shell fitment. 70g additional weight installed
CS Ratio - 1.75
FDR - 7.12
Front to rear weight balance - 60/40
Left to right balance - 50/50
Cross weight (wedge) - 50/50

Copy, don't copy, it's up to you. You know where I stand on it; it's a lot more fun to discover your own settings than to copy someone else's and then blame them for the "bad settings". These work for me and my driving style and may not necessarily work for others but remember, this is all just for fun, if you're not having fun, you're doing it wrong!