(Image source: The RWD RC Society)
Tired of your CS drifter? Maybe you're not too good at it? Or maybe you're just curious about the world of RWD RC drift? Well you're in luck. There are plenty of websites, forums, Facebook groups, YouTube channels etc. dedicated to RWD drifting found with an easy Google search.
I'm not going to give you a step by step procedure or an overall guide as RWD is very tedious work and requires time and patience. It's also beneficial to have a working knowledge of car chassis and suspension systems especially regarding geometry. I have been building and stripping and rebuilding and stripping (enter continuous loop) a ghetto modded Sakura D3 for RWD. I have had it working fairly well both on concrete and carpet but every time I hit the internet, I learn something new and have to try it! Currently on MK3, it is just a mess around for the time being but I will invest in a designed for RWD RC car in the future.
This post however, is more to enlighten you guys about RWD drifting and what better way is there than copying and pasting someone else's work saving me tons of time! On a serious note though, tons of time (including practice time) is what is needed for RWD. Here is a post by Christopher Francis Chio from The RWD RC Society which I have taken, sorted through and make a few spelling and grammar corrections before pasting it in.
I got some tips from a lot of sources so I want to summarise this LONG and TEDIOUS setup change squeezed into this little Facebook post!!!!
The 20 simplest yet shortest ways of getting slideways with a RWD:
- Get any RC car (as long as it’s not a tt01) and it should be TUNABLE IN EVERY WAY. You must have adjustability for camber, caster, toe, body roll and damper angles. Maximum “tunability” is important for both user and chassis compatibility
- No need to practice CS to get into RWD, it is completely different. In other words, people who tell those people that to master CS before RWD, don’t believe them, that’s pure ********
- Keep practicing donuts (throttle practice) with RWD no matter how boring it may get... Then practice figure 8's to master "catching" switchbacks and then get a gyro after mastering the "skills part” of the setup
- "Creative part" - Be ready to modify your RC kit! Be Crazy!! Mix and match anything you can find down from parts or metal plates from old appliances etc. Do Xeno Transfusion of parts from one chassis to another to create the ultimate chassis like in the real world. It’s like swapping an SR20DET and putting in an LS1 V8 in a JZX100. E.g. get some Kondo custom Y arms for the lower deck and get some Yokomo DRB upper arms and get some MST knuckles and put it together in a Sakura D3 chassis with Traxxas suspension towers. Take risks even though you know you might mess up, you can always revert back to how it was
- Get a feel of the right tyre combos catering to your setup since 99% of car hardware is useless if that 1%, which is the tires, isn’t setup right! This part can be frustrating, since testing is required - HIT or MISS according to surface friction coefficient
- WEIGHT - Add some rear weight because we need some grip at the rear and add some to the front to bring the Center of Gravity closer to the front to make the back want to chase the front
- GYRO IS A MUST! This is the "Technical Part". You may think gyros are for p******s but it’s not... If you have drifted KA24 S14a in real life, you let go of the steering and catch it at the right time. Same application in RC but the gyro catches that for you. In 1:1, you barely have 1.6 seconds to react to the cars steering in long drifts, so if that time is in 1:1, apply it to 1:10 scale and you would get 0.16secs to catch a switchback which is insane!!!! Name me one person who could catch all RC drifts consistently because I think that would be GODLIKE! GYRO!!!!! GAIN OF 60% or above is frowned upon because you’re letting the whole car drive for you LOL
- DEVOTE time and practice! RWD drifting is a whole new level
- DON'T FOLLOW EXACT SETUPS of what is on the forum, get the idea and apply it! Analyse it.... Each setup is acquired by the preferences of that person
- Get brushless motors in the range of 9t - 12.5t. More higher top speed because your gear ratio can compensate for that
- Gear ratio is up to you but always go for lower gear ratios to have better throttle response whilst going slideways
- No money doesn’t mean you can’t pursue the RWD setup! A TON OF PEOPLE HAVE DRIFTED by doing ghetto mods - again DIY Skills is a must for this setup
- There is NO BEST CHASSIS for RWD out there! It’s just how well it was designed so it doesn’t mean that RWD drifting is only for big names like Yokomo, HPI or MST because even a "Ofna Hong JLseries" could drift really well I bet none of you guys have ever heard about that chassis lol. Its Chinese by the way
- Be prepared to lose some of your CS and 50/50 skills sad part about RWD drifting... I lost 2 years of practice just some time ago. In the "Skills Part", you have to constantly keep 1/5 of the throttle because when u let that throttle off, it’s like an instant handbrake causing the car to snap out of its drift since RC cars don’t have front brakes. In long drifts using the handbrake makes longer drifts going in the entry and then "power-over" or full throttle is applied to get to the outer corner
- Steering angle!!!! At least 65º is way more than enough since in drifting we must keep a certain angle to prevent from keeping us going to slow! Remember MORE drift angle = less speed coming out of the turn unless first turn was after a long straight
- Suspension - front hard to prevent oversteer snapbacks and create "a little understeer" and rear must be very soft to make it grip in the corners so you can put more throttle and have more angle, this is according to Daijiro Yoshihara's mechanic (friend of my Japanese friend in Adachi-ku Tokyo)
- RWD setup is never stopping at a point... Always want to achieve more because it brings in more ideas!!!
- Get some caster! Improve straight line stability yet it also balances the forces acting upon the car when it gets sideways. I don’t recommend (-) caster since it makes the car quite unstable
- For Ackermann AKA toe (+/-); it’s always good to have Ackermann! More Ackermann = faster turn in entries and faster switchbacks just remember don’t go overboard as the outer wheel drags the whole chassis. Reverse Ackermann good for lesser reaction time and it is better in tracks where it requires you to be slow everywhere since the outer wheel doesn’t drag the chassis to the other side at slow speeds where momentum require would be more than at high speeds
- MOST IMPORTANT RULE!!! Remember a good RWD chassis is based on how you will apply and ANALYSE things from the 1:1 world to the 1:10 RC world after all; the goal of RWD RC drifting is to get the most realistic EXPERIENCE on a scale model of 1:10!
Keep RWD Drifting Fun!
By the way guys, I’m just summing up what I analysed, I don’t want you guys to see me as a KNOW-IT-ALL"
A lot to take in right... Time and patience are key to RWD drifting. Don't rush into it thinking people will help you. People WILL help you but you need to be able to help yourself as every driver is different and every chassis is different; what may work for one may not work for another so take your time.
And have fun while doing it!
Keep an eye out on this blog, hopefully my D3-RWD-MK3 will make a debut soon followed by a (possible build thread but definitely a) showcase and overview.